Sunday, March 27, 2022

Trip of a Lifetime - Day 4

 Marvels

Today started early, because mom and I couldn't sleep past about 3:30am. We tried. But I didn't want to leave the hotel before we had enjoyed the complementary breakfast buffet. So we stayed in our room and some research about what we could do on a Sunday morning in Jerusalem until it was time for breakfast. Then we ate and were off to the Temple Mount. 

We are staying at the Grand Court Hotel, which is about 20 minutes walking distance to the Old City of Jerusalem. We headed out with my Google Maps leading the way, and twenty minutes later we were standing at the Western Wall.

I mentioned the Western Wall (Kotel) in the blog post on Jerusalem a few days ago. It's over 2,000 years old, and it's where Jews can go to connect with their history, their heritage, their faith, and their people from all over the world. For the rest of us, it's a place to see history meeting the modern day, a chance to visit one of the most important places in the world, and a chance to witness and experience deep devotion.

To get to the Kotel we walked through the busy, car-honking, bustling streets of East Jerusalem until we arrived at the Damascus Gate. Once through the Damascus Gate we were transported in time to narrow, stone streets and no motorized traffic except the occasional cart transporting goods to one of several hundred shops in the Bazaar. We walked along the Via Dolorosa, where Jesus carried his cross after being sentenced to death. 



We knew we were getting close to the Kotel when we saw armed officers and a security screening checkpoint. All bags through the scanner, all items out of pockets, all people through the metal detector.  Then out of the stone tunnel and we were at the Western Wall Plaza.

The wall is separated into a men's side and a women's side. The men's side is about four times larger than the women's side. This turned out to be a bummer for us, because the men's side had huge open spaces, and the women's side was three people deep. We anticipated needing to cover our heads, so we brought head scarves with us for just this purpose. Most of the women entering the area for worship have their heads covered and are dressed in all black. We placed our prayers into the cracks of the wall and had a few moments of reflection. Then we took selfies and smiled at our good fortune.


It was helpful that mom was wearing fuschia today. She was easy to find in the crowds of people all dressed in black.

(The degree to which my skin matches the color of the wall was surprising. I had to touch up this photo just so you could see my hand. Otherwise I'm a perfect camouflage for the Kotel.)

After visiting the wall we headed to the Temple Mount, where the Al Aqsa and Dome Of The Rock Mosques stand. It was literally on the other side of the wall, but we were going from the Jewish side to the Muslim side, so another security check was required. Our guide explained that they don't allow you to go to the Temple Mount if you have a Bible in your posession, and if you're wearing a cross or Star of David pendant you need to hide it before being allowed in. Signs heading to the Mount explain that devout Jews are not to go at all, because no one REALLY knows the EXACT location of the Holy Of Holies, and to walk over it, even unwittingly, would be offensive. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside the mosques on the Temple Mount.

The Al Aqsa Mosque was built over 1,300 years ago, atop the spot where Muhammed experienced his famous Night Journey. The Dome On The Rock was built about 1,200 years ago, and is believed to be built exactly atop where Solomon's Temple once stood. Both structures are impressive, and it was incredible to be on the Temple Mount with so few people. Score a point in the positive column for jet lag!





After the Temple Mount it was time to make our way through the Bazaars, now open and bustling, to find the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Does anyone remember Roman/Christian History? Constantine was the Emperor who converted to Christianity in 312 CE, allowing any Roman who wanted to follow Christian teachings to finally not be burned alive or fed to lions in the Coliseum. (Pre-Constantine, things for Christians in Rome had been pretty bleak.) Constantine sent his mother, Helena, to find the site of Jesus's tomb, and she did so much more. She found his tomb, the site of his crucifixion, and even a good portion of the true cross on which he was crucified. It is considered the holiest place in Christianity, and is one of the primary pilgrimage sites for Christians. In about two weeks, when mom and I are coming home, it will be PACKED with people celebrating passion week on the site where it all happened.

Mom and I spent nearly two hours there. We wanted to enter the small chapel in the center, which is where Christ was entombed, but there were Sunday worship services happening, and priests of a denomination we couldn't recognize (probably Greek Orthodox?) were going in and out of the chapel to get their items for worship -- candles, incense, communion bread and wine,... There was much chanting and singing, and officiants pounding staffs into the stage to alert onlookers that they need to move so the priests could move about. Then, about 40 feet away, another service began! Was it Catholic? A group of men in a choir loft started singing, and they sounded like Benedictine Monks, so maybe? Then the priest started talking and it sounded Arabic, so maybe Coptic Christian? But the Armenians also worship here, and so do the Syrians, so was it one of their services? They all worship at the same time. Their songs and bells and chanting and organ music and banging staffs and prayers in unison all overlapped in a cacophony of blending, international, interdenominational Christian worship. It was incredible. 

It was also unintelligible, and while all the worshippers were going through their prayers and hymns, mom and I made our way from one empty chapel to another, taking in all the sites of the church while they were completely free of crowds. Guide books told us is typical to spend over an hour to simply enter this church, but  this morning we walked right in, sat in one chapel by ourselves for awhile, then walked back to enjoy parts of the various services. 

Photo: Does this man look Greek Orthodox? Syrian?

This is a part of Golgotha, the hill on which Jesus was crucified. There are other parts, all encased in glass like this.

This is facing the entrance to the chapel over Jesus's tomb. Those of us who were there to appreciate the relics were clearly an annoyance to the men conducting the worship service. They banged staffs loudly and corralled us to the edges of the church with scowls on their faces. I'm not sure Jesus would have dug it. He was more of a "hey! good to see you!" kind of guy.

One interesting thing happened when we made our way to the upper chapel, while they were serving communion. Mom and I sat on a side bench along the wall, taking it all in. A guy in a high-backed wooden chair started stomping his feet, so I had to look over to see what was up. He was pointing angrily at me!! I got a look of confusion and pointed to myself, and he pointed back at me with fire in his eyes! He wore a scowl I haven't seen since my Plymouth K-car accidentally rolled forward and bumped the back of the Ferrari in front of me at the Burger King drive through in Phoenix in the early 90s. What in the world was I doing? I was just sitting there. He dramatically crossed his legs, pointed at them, and did the "no-no" finger wave.

I had crossed my legs. 😱 Not in the cowboy manner, but in the knee-over-knee-like-a-British-Aristocratic-lady manner. (If a British aristocratic lady were wearing performance fleece, camp pants, and hiking boots.) Turns out, crossing one's legs in a house of worship is a sign of significant disrespect here, because the sole of the foot is visible and potentially pointing at something sacred. I knew about the soles of the feet thing, and the "no cowboy leg crossing" thing, but I didn't know it was offensive to "sit like a lady". So if you ever find yourself in any house of worship in the Middle East, be sure to keep your legs uncrossed -- even at the ankles!

We got back to the room and I could hardly walk. Four weeks ago I had knee surgery on my right knee, to remove torn cartilage on both the medial and lateral meniscuses. The amount of time to recover enough after surgery to comfortably walk on uneven terrain is about 4 weeks. Tomorrow will be four weeks after surgery, and today we walked 17,000 steps on a lot of uneven terrain. So we got back to the room and I put my feet on a pillow, wishing I were able to walk as well as my 82 year-old mother. She walked through the city really well all morning, and we were on our feet for 5 1/2 consecutive hours! Such a trooper! Having my feet up for a few hours helped a lot. I've been really glad I had the surgery. The pressure it takes to slide your foot into a slipper boot caused too much knee pain for me to bear before the surgery, so I'm in a much better situation now than I would have been without the surgery.

When evening came it was time to meet our tour group. There are seven of us, plus the tour guide. There might be an 8th tomorrow, if he shows up. He was a no-show for the meeting tonight, and the hotel said he never checked into his room, so who knows. After meeting one another, and after hearing from our guide about things like tipping and so on, we all walked to a very nice restaurant and enjoyed a lovely meal.

I think my mom would be sharing a very different version of events. I never strike up conversations with strangers, because I just assume I'd be annoying to them, so I mostly keep to myself and observe from a distance. Mom, on the other hand, has struck up conversations with virtually everyone we have encountered so far. When our Taxi driver responded to her questions with, "No. No good English" she didn't hear him, so she just kept interviewing him, and managed to find out he has been driving a taxi for 20 years, things were very slow during COVID, and he drives nights AND days. The guy sitting next to her on the plane from O'Hare is from Belgium, he's seeing a woman in Peioria, Illinois, he has to go back to Belgium every so often when his visa expires, he used to teach math for a living, he played in a band when he was younger, and so much more. (I'm not sure what else. My headphones were on.)

That's all for today. L'chaim!




Saturday, March 26, 2022

Trip of a Lifetime - Days 2-3

 Days 2 and 3 have kind of blended together in a long period of travel and isolation. We boarded the plane in Chicago and landed in Brussels. We had 40 minutes to get to our flight that would take us from Brussels to Munich. Or so we thought. The plane was delayed, so it didn't arrive for some time. We took off 30 minutes late. We originally only had an hour between landing in Munich and departing for Tel Aviv, so it was going to be tight, given that we had to go through passport checks and so on. The flight attendant in Brussels reassured us that it would be fine.

It wasn't fine. We missed our 11:20am connection and had to wait for the next flight to Tel Aviv, which would depart at 10:10pm.

By the time we landed in Munich we had been awake for 22 hours, and now we were looking at another 11 hours of waiting for a flight that would take 4 hours. Additionally, we had taken our PCR COVID test on Tuesday morning, early enough that we'd get the results (24-48 hours to receive) before boarding our flight from O'Hare on Thursday evening, but late enough that it would qualify for the "no longer than 72 hours before entry into Israel" requirement. But our 72 hour window would expire at 6:00pm on Friday. We were initially going to land in Israel at 5:00pm. With this delay we wouldn't land until 3:00am Saturday. We would have to re-take our COVID PCR tests.

Fortunately, Munich airport had a testing lab on-site, and they could do a PCR test that would provide results in 1-2 hours. Because the problem was caused by Lufthansa's connection, they gave us vouchers that would let us take that €200 test for free, and vouchers that would let us eat for up to €10 two times that day.

About the connection... we're a little unclear about what the Lufthansa representative meant, because English is one of the four or five languages we heard her speak while we were in line, but it sounded like she was saying 36 people from our Brussels-to-Munich flight were also headed to Tel Aviv. The service representative in Munich explained that with so many people connecting in Munich to Tel Aviv, they would normally hold the plane until we could board. But with Israel it's different. They have very strict rules about entry into Israel, and if they held the plane they would lose all the rights to fly into Israel. So they let the plane go, and moved all of us to the 10:10pm flight.

Mom and I took turns napping on the seats in a completely empty area of the terminal, we charged our devices, we caught up on emails, and all the other things one does while waiting for 11 hours. 



Our PCR tests came back negative. We went to our gate at 8:00 to check in very early for our 10:10pm flight. There were already dozens of people there, of course. One group of women started singing what sounded like a religious song in Spanish. It was really beautiful. We got our passports checked, and then they opened the door for us to board the plane... or so we thought.

Instead of walking through the door down a jetway to a plane, we walked through a door down a staircase to the ground floor, which was about three or four stories of steps below. We expected to cross the tarmac and ascend the stairs to our plane, but that's not what happened either. Instead, we boarded a double-long bus that had our flight number on it, and when it was completely packed with people (no social distancing on this bus) it drove us around the service roads of the airport to a distant bus terminal, where we would do a super thorough security screening. 

We didn't have to disrobe, thankfully, but we did have to remove jackets, sweaters, and shoes. Like usual, all electronics in our bags, which had already been scanned at O'Hare, had to come out of the bags into bins, and re-scanned. They used a wand to check for metal, while performing a surprisingly familiar pat-down. The woman checking me learned that I was not concealing anything in my bra or pants. She had me stand on one foot at a time so she could move the wand over the bottoms of my feet. The wand picked up something in my pocket. It was the unused sanitary wipe that the flight attendant had given me on the previous flight. The "metal" detector was set to a very sensitive setting.

When we were through the screening, my mother asked one of the officers, "Do you do this for every flight from Munich? Or is this just for travel to Israel?" "ONLY for Israel," he answered.

We thought we'd leave the screening depot and head outside to board our plane. But instead, we got back on one of two double-long busses, packed to bursting with people, and rode more service roads to a plane somewhere completely different than our gate or the screening depot. We boarded last. (Mom has a way of saying "no, after you" to everyone we meet.) The flight was completely full.

The process to check passports, drive us to the screening depot, drive us back to the plane, and board everyone, took over an hour.

How were they going to get us through that process between our earlier landing and departure? 

We spent about 4 hours flying to Israel, where we would disembark and go through passport control. Then pick up luggage. Then go through customs. Then to another PCR test. The lines were HUGE! There was a lot of activity at the Ben Gurion airport at 4:00am! A few hours earlier we were in the Munich airport and it was a s quiet as could be during the daytime, and now we were in Tel Aviv and you would have thought it was Spring Break in Fort Lauderdale! There were people from EVERYWHERE, and we all had to get our noses swabbed for COVID before we could leave the airport. When it was finally our turn I showed the technician our negative test results from 12 hours earlier. That was irrelevant. EVERYONE entering Israel gets a PCR test, and the results take 24 hours to receive. Until then, we stay in our hotel room. 


Because our pre-reserved shuttle to the hotel had been there to pick us up at 5:00pm, we had to take a taxi to our hotel, which was about an hour away. That was ₪600 (Shekels), or about $200. We arrived at our hotel at nearly 6:00am. We had left for O'Hare Airport on Thursday at 2:00pm Chicago time, and were checking in to our hotel at 6:00 Saturday morning Israel time (which was 10pm Friday night in Chicago).

To be clear, neither of us got annoyed at all during this day of travel and unexpected shifts in plans. We're just happy to be here. Mom's a super content traveler. We're enjoying this immensely, and we haven't even seen Israel yet!

We have slept enough for today, but can't leave the room until we get negative test results. They could come in as late as 3:00am, so not sure what we'll see of Israel today.

WOOOOOO!!!! It's 8:45pm and our results just came back negative. We're leaving the hotel!

Thursday, March 24, 2022

Trip of a Lifetime - Day 1

 A Little About Jerusalem

We're traveling today, so if all goes well there won't be anything interesting to share. So today I'll share some info about Jerusalem, our first stop on the tour.

In 1200 BCE Moses led the Hebrews out of Egypt, heading toward the Promised Land. They were twelve tribes, aligned to the twelve sons of Jacob (whose name became Israel). They were encamped, still close to Egypt, when Moses went up Mount Sinai to have a chat with God. It was there that God wrote The Law upon stone tablets. We all know the image of Moses holding the tablets with the Ten Commandments, but it was actually 613 Commandments. Jews today will wear prayer shawls (tallit) with 613 tassels (tzitzit). When he arrived with the tablets, the Hebrews built a container for them out of wood and gold, and named it The Ark of the Covenant. (For non-Jews, it was the thing that melted the faces of the Nazis at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark.) 

The Hebrews wandered the desert with this Ark for 40 years, and whenever they camped it would be housed in The Tabernacle -- a huge tent that served as the center of worship for the Hebrews. The significance of this Ark and those tablets can't be overstated. God was in there. If you wanted to pray to God, you had to go to Him. The entire Hebrew community stayed in close proximity to the Temple.

When the twelve tribes/kingdoms finally settled in The Promised Land, the Ark was always the center of ritual and worship. Because they were all descendants of Jacob, whose name was changed to Israel, they became the Israelites, but they were still twelve separate kingdoms. The Ark moved around a bit between the tribes during the following 350 years, but then King David unified the twelve tribes into a single nation, and he moved the Ark to Jerusalem, in the Kingdom of Judah. His son, Solomon, built a grand temple to replace the Tabernacle in 957BCE, and that's when Jerusalem became the center of life and worship. Literally. Jews would face Jerusalem to pray. In the book of Daniel, the reason Daniel gets thrown into the den of lions is because he gets busted kneeling toward Jerusalem to pray, instead of toward King Darius. 

In 586 BCE King Nebuchadnezzar of Babylon destroyed the Temple in Jerusalem, and plundered it of all its treasure. No one has seen the Ark of the Covenant since then. Jews were exiled and scattered from the region in what is known as the Diaspora. For the sake of brevity I've skipped the bit about the nation of Israel splitting into north Israel, and south Judah, then the Assyrians conquering the northern kingdom of Israel in 722 BCE, leaving only the southern kingdom of Judah. This is when the term Judish, or Jewish, arose.

After about 60 years of exile, Cyrus the Great allowed the Jews to return to Judah, which the Romans later called Judaea. The Jews built The Second Temple, which stood for over 500 years. Herod the Great renovated and expanded the temple, turning it into an incredibly grand structure, which was completed in about 10BCE. 

Jesus came along around this time, and there's a lot of important stories of Jesus in Jerusalem. When he was twelve (read: pre-Bar Mitzvah, so pre-adult, so shouldn't be literate in scripture yet) his family went to Jerusalem in a caravan, because no matter where you lived, you had to go to the Temple to do the rituals, sacrifices, and worship practices during important holidays. So the whole community trekked to Jerusalem, and on the way home they couldn't find Jesus. They walked all the way back to Jerusalem and there was Jesus, still in the Temple, chatting it up with the most learned scholars, and impressing them with his nuanced understanding of the law. Later Jesus and his disciples would go to Jerusalem to observe Passover, and when they arrived he was greeted by the people as if he was there to conquer Rome and restore independent rule. This triumphal entry is still commemorated as Palm Sunday. A few days later Jesus threw the tables of the money changers and merchants in the Temple, which was an event that would seal his fate. The next day he celebrated the Passover Seder with his friends, and that would become The Last Supper. The next day he was arrested, tried by Judaea's Roman governor Pontius Pilate, sent to Herod Antipas (Herod The Great's Son), sent back to Pilate, and sentenced to death. The next day he would carry his cross through the streets of Jerusalem to Golgotha, where he was crucified. He was buried, and resurrected, right outside the walls of Jerusalem. 

Herod's beautiful Temple only stood until 70 CE, when Rome squashed a Jewish rebellion, and destroyed the temple and razed Jerusalem, leading to a Jewish exile that would last for nearly 2000 years. The only thing left standing when the Romans were done with it was the Western Wall (The Wailing Wall, The Kotel). 

Skipping ahead a few centuries, in 621CE Muhammed was well into his career as the founder of a new faith. The revelations he was receiving started in 610CE, and would continue until his death in 632. The revelations would eventually be compiled into a book called The Qur'an. Judaism and Christianity were well-established religions in his part of the world, and he took some cues from them. In 621 he experienced the famous "Night Journey," where Gabriel led him to Jerusalem, riding the back of a winged horse, and when he got there he would visit with the major prophets (Moses, Abraham, Adam, Jesus, and others), and receive instructions from God about how Muslims should pray. Whereas Moses met God and received instruction on Mount Sinai, Muhammed met God at the site of the Al-Aqsa Mosque, in Jerusalem. This site is the third most important site in Islam, behind Mecca, and Medina (where Islam began, and where Muhammed is buried).

Jerusalem has seen a lot with these three faiths. Rome held it for centuries, including the later Roman period when Rome became Christian, then Byzantine Empire. Muslims conquered the Byzantines and held Jerusalem for generations. They built a grand mosque, The Dome Of The Rock, on the very spot where Solomon's Temple and The Second Temple once stood. Christians wanted to control Jerusalem, so they staged the Crusades to take it from the Muslims. Control went back and forth, with thousands and thousands dying to defend or seize it. The Ottoman Empire held it for centuries, until World War I. British forces seized Palestine and governed it for awhile. When World War II ended, and the Jews had been targeted for genocide by Germany, Britain and the brand new United Nations created a partition plan for Palestine, which created a new Israel. Jerusalem would remain an international city, and no one would call it theirs. 

For decades Israel has considered Jerusalem its capital, but the world has acknowledged Tel Aviv as the capital, because the UN partition plan says Jerusalem can't belong to any nation. That changed when Donald Trump announced that the American embassy would move to Jerusalem, in acknowledgement of their sovereignty to name their own capital city. This drew mixed reactions from around the world. Israel was happy with the decision. After all, if the world told us we couldn't have our capital city in Washington D.C., we'd tell them to get lost. A country should be able to locate its capital where it wants. On the other hand, if international peace depends on Jerusalem being a neutral, international city, it's irresponsible for the U.S. to acknowledge it as Israel's. The U.N. Security Council held an emergency meeting and strongly condemned the decision to move our embassy, but the U.S. acted anyway. The day the announcement was made there were violent uprisings. In 2018, the day the embassy was opened there were protests, and reprisals by Israel led to the deaths of 58 Palestinians. Our move inspired other countries to move to Jerusalem, but all of our European allies stand against the move.

Mom and I will spend today and tomorrow on planes, and tomorrow we'll arrive in Israel. When we land in Tel Aviv they'll do a PCR test on us, then we'll shuttle to our hotel in Jerusalem and spend a day in isolation until our results come back negative.

Wednesday, March 23, 2022

Trip of a Lifetime - Day 0

My trip to Israel with my mother starts tomorrow.

Let me back up. 

As a child I was deeply interested in faith, spirituality, and religion. I was eternally curious about "the big questions." For several years, from grade school through middle school, I attended Sunday School at two different churches every Sunday. When we'd read the Bible and learn all the stories, the main thing they had in common was location. Israel was central to most of the stories. Mom and I decided it would be fantastic to go there... someday...

In college I told my guidance counselor I wanted to major in Religious Studies. "Oh! Are you heading into the Seminary after college?" I explained that I didn't really believe in God, but found the subject matter interesting, and wanted to pursue the study of religion for the sake of study itself. That was highly unconventional, and didn't lead to a career, so I was steered into Psychology. (I never used my Psychology degree.) During those college years my mom pointed out that her church was going on a tour of the Holy Land. Maybe we could go? We looked into it and gave it a long consideration. But it was expensive. My sister and I were in college, so we were expensive, too. We couldn't do it then, but maybe someday...

After graduating from college I decided to pursue a graduate degree in Religious Studies when I was living in Arizona. First I'd have to go back and pick up all the basic courses at the community college, because of course,  with a degree in Psychology I didn't have the undergraduate background necessary for graduate study in Religion. So I went back and picked up the basics (World Religions, Philosophy Of Religion) and then went on to earn my Masters degree in Religious Studies from Arizona State. During those years I became a member of the Biblical Archaeological Society and the American Academy of Religion. I'd receive quarterly and/or monthly publications from those societies, and they would announce certain travel opportunities for religious scholars. "Professor Amazing from Fabulous University is leading an archaeological dig in the city of Ancient-opolis, to possibly uncover ruins that will lead to the verification of an obscure person in some verses you've never read in the Bible." I'd read those announcements with envy, hoping that someday I'd get to do such a dig. But each dig was upwards of $3,000 (in the 90s), and I was paying for graduate school while supporting myself, so I'd longingly read the posts thinking,.... someday.

It was during that time that I started saving money for my mother to go. We had always discussed going together, but it was always so expensive. If I started saving a little at a time, maybe I could get enough together and we'd be able to go on one of her church's tours. Every few years they'd go back, so we just needed to time it right and save wisely. One year I handed her a check for $1,000 -- a LOT of money from my perspective then, but a fraction of what we'd need to make it happen. She refused the check. She assured me that we'd get there... someday.

In 1999 my mom found out that my sister's husband's uncle, who is a priest in Ireland, would be leading a tour to Israel through his church. She signed up! Mom was finally going to get to see Israel in 2000!! But in early 2000 her mother, my grandmother, took a turn for the worse, and we lost her in June. Mom had to cancel her trip which started when mom was planning my grandmother's services. But mom took it in stride and always said that it was okay she couldn't go then. She knew she'd get there... someday...

In 2004 I met Amy, and we decided to spend our lives together. She's an avid traveler, and wanted to treat me to an incredible trip overseas. "If you could travel anywhere in the world," she asked me eagerly, "where would you go?"

"Oh, easy," I said, "Israel. But right now they're deep in the Second Intifada, and I don't want to be on a bus that blows up, so maybe.. Rome? Athens?" She booked us on a cruise that would take us to Rome, Athens, and several other port stops the following summer. We kept an eye on the news coming from Israel, knowing that we'd get there... someday.

Things have been pretty hectic since then. Kaiden came along in 2008, and I've been busy "momming" since his arrival. My brain injury in 2013 stopped all travel for a few years, and recovering from that has taken a long time. I was getting well enough to travel again a few years ago, so Amy surprised me with a birthday gift in 2019. "Karina, I've spoken with your mother, and I'm making plans. For your birthday this year, and for every birthday and Christmas for the rest of your life, how would you like to travel to Israel with your mother next year, on a National Geographic Tour?"

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMG!!!!! It's happening!?!?! The interminable "Someday" is next year!?!!

Amy and Mom and I looked into all the tours that corresponded with dates when Amy's work schedule could accommodate me leaving for a few weeks. We settled on a 15 day tour of Israel and Jordan, departing in May of 2020. We had a year to plan. Over the next several months we booked our tour, bought the plane tickets, reserved the hotels, purchased travel insurance, and selected our optional excursions! SO EXCITING!!!! We would leave in May! 

In December we started hearing about a virus they were calling COVID.

In April National Geographic canceled all its May excursions.

National Geographic reassured us that they would let us reschedule. We rescheduled for November, 2020.

In October, all November tours were canceled. We rescheduled for the following May, 2021.

In April, all May tours were canceled. We rescheduled for the following November, 2021.

In October, all November tours were canceled. We rescheduled for March 24, 2022.

...which is tomorrow!

We selected our tour, bought our plane tickets, reserved our hotels, purchased our travel insurance, selected our optional excursions, and additionally, we both found out two hours ago that the PCR test we took at O'Hare on Tuesday came back negative!

For several decades our attempts to go to Israel have been thwarted by lack of funds, grandma's death, Israeli/Palestinian wars, and a global pandemic. But someday is tomorrow. You can keep an eye on this blog for updates about our experiences, and I'll be posting photos to Facebook.

Wish us luck!!



Mom gets her COVID test at O'Hare Airport, two days before departure.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

A World History Lesson for President Trump, from a Nationally Certified History Teacher.

Hello President Trump!

I’m not only a high school World History teacher, but am also one of the 320 million American citizens you represent. After seeing the interview where you said Andrew Jackson was very upset about the Civil War, despite the fact that he was dead several years before it began, I realized how necessary it is that you have at least one basic lesson in World History. The lesson I’ll present is the first lesson my students get when we start to discuss World War I, at the beginning of 4th quarter.

Everyone in Europe knows, and some Americans know, World War I was sparked when Archduke Ferdinand, of Austria-Hungary, was assassinated by Gavrilo Princip, a member of a radical, nationalist organization in Serbia. Princip shot and killed Ferdinand, heir to the throne of Austria-Hungary, and also his wife Sophie, while they were riding in the backseat of a car in a ceremonial motorcade through the streets of Sarajevo. You can picture JFK being shot in the convertible in Dallas? This was just like that, just with a much older car.

Before we go on, let me reassure you that Austria-Hungary is no longer a country, so don’t worry about reaching out to their King, or Emperor, or whatever sort of leader you think might be in charge over there.

While Ferdinand's assassination was the spark, most Europeans know, and a few Americans know, this wasn’t the cause. There were four causes of World War I, which can be easily remembered by the mnemonic (memory device) MAIN. The M stand for Militarism. The A stands for Alliances. The I stands for Imperialism. The N stands for Nationalism. Let’s look at these four causes.

Militarism: If you have a knife, but your biggest enemy has a gun, you want a bigger gun. If you have a bigger gun, your enemy wants an even bigger gun. If your enemy gets that bigger gun, you want a fully-automatic, military-grade rifle, with night-vision scope and laser sight. When you get that, he gets something that can shoot from the sky, and so on, and so on… Nations do the same thing. England had the biggest navy at the time. Remember that the sun never set on the British Empire? It takes a lot of ships to keep control over that many territories in the world, so their navy was enormous. Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm wanted to have a navy that was larger than the two next strongest navies combined -- England and whoever was next. So Germany started building ships and submarines at break-neck pace, and when Great Britain saw Germany increasing its navy, they started building more ships, because England wanted to remain the largest navy in the world. You see how this might cause an endless escalation of arming the world’s greatest powers? Besides England and Germany, others in the area got nervous about all the naval power surrounding them, so they started ramping up military production as well. One doesn’t spend millions of Marks, Rubles, Franks, Pounds, or Dollars on weapons, with no intention of using them. I tell my students it would be like spending the entire school budget on the football team, but never having it play a game. Where you spend your money tells people where your priorities lie. Channeling that much money to your military demonstrates a readiness to deploy that military.

Alliances:
You’re familiar with NATO. Sometimes you tell us you think it’s a good thing. Other times you tell us you think it’s a bad thing. It didn’t exist prior to World War I. But there were some verbal agreements between gentlemen. The Czar of Russia, the Kaiser of Germany, and the King of England were all…. get this… first cousins! Yep. Queen Victoria was their grandmother. Yes, THAT Queen Victoria. You’re probably familiar with Victorian architecture and Victorian fashion. All of that came into vogue when Queen Victoria was in power in England. Three of her grandsons would eventually rule three of the greatest powers in the world, and they’d go to war against one another. Alliances are good when someone has your back. You know that if someone attacks you, your ally will be behind you. But alliances like this had never existed before, so when war began they created a surprising effect, like a brush fire suddenly turning into a massive conflagration across Europe. Soon countries all over the world were at war. The United States knew better than to get involved. At first. We wanted no part of such a horrible war, we didn’t cause it, and we didn’t need to enter it. But we were very happy to increase our manufacture and sales of weapons and planes. Our economy grew by leaps and bounds once the fighting began. Wars are nothing if not exceedingly profitable, for some.

But I digress. The economics of war is another issue for another class, so I won’t get into that lesson here. Long story short, the leader of Austria-Hungary was furious at the assassination of his heir, so he declared war on Serbia. Russia was an ally of Serbia, so Czar Nicholas of Russia declared war on Austria-Hungary. Germany promised to defend Austria-Hungary, so Germany's Kaiser Wilhelm declared war on his own cousin, Czar Nicholas, in Russia. King George in England entered the conflict on the side of Serbia and his cousin Czar Nicholas in Russia, also declaring war on his own first cousin, Kaiser Wilhelm in Germany, and on it went until dozens and dozens of countries all over the world were fighting.

Imperialism:
When I say that countries all over the world were fighting, I mean that every British colony around the world was fighting for Great Britain, every country colonized by the French was fighting for France, German colonies fought for Germany. You get the idea.  Additionally, there were conflicts between European nations over the borders and land claims of lands they claimed in Africa and Asia.  "If your land lies on that side of the river, and my land on this side, who controls fishing, transportation, and dumping of waste in the river?"  England controlled India, Egypt, Palestine, South Africa, Canada, Australia, Iraq,… Let’s look at what some of the other countries around the world were called at that time. There was the Belgian Congo, French Indochina, German West Africa… Africans and Asians may have had no interest in the war engulfing Europe, but since they weren’t in control their own destinies, they were dragged in.

Nationalism:
German leaders were saying things like “Germany First!” English leaders were saying, “England First!” French leaders were saying, “France First!” Nationalism, in wartime, isn’t just a celebration of one’s own culture. It’s a rejection of other cultures. If Germany is awesome, as so many Germans believed, then France and Russia and Italy and Spain must suck. If everyone feels that every other culture sucks, it’s not too hard to see everyone who is “other” as inferior, even to the point of being worthy of elimination. Nationalism can be very galvanizing, and while pride in one’s country is a fabulous thing, condescension toward other countries can be a very dangerous thing.  

Relevance:
I’m only telling you this lesson because it’s important to learn from the past, and I can’t believe all these causes of war are coming together again in such a glaringly obvious way. Here’s how you are contributing to all four factors.

Militarism: By telling the entire world that you’ll cut spending on absolutely everything, from children’s health care, to after school programs, to school lunches for impoverished children, to our world-renowned National Parks Service, to the National Endowment for the Arts, to Sesame Street – but are willing to increase spending and hiring in the military, you’re giving the rest of the world a reason to strengthen their own militaries. Guys like Kim Jong-Un can point to American military build-up and justify his own nuclear weapons testing. So can China. So can Pakistan. So can every country we make nervous right now, which somehow recently started to include Australia – a mind-boggling development if ever there was one.

Alliances:
If two boys offend and provoke each other, they’re likely to get into a fist fight at school. But if one boy has several friends behind him, the other boy probably won’t throw a punch. You may not see it this way, but most people see leaders of nations as grown-up boys who still offend and provoke each other, and sometimes want to throw punches. Having allies is a deterrent to war. When Saddam Hussein, a grown-up bully, invaded Kuwait in 1990, he had to contend with a huge coalition of countries rushing to Kuwait’s defense. Little, tiny Kuwait! The United Nations member nations sent soldiers and weapons, bombed the bejeezus out of the Iraqi military, and saw Kuwait’s sovereignty restored to them. Vulnerable countries, like Kuwait (and Israel), need strong allies, or else they’d be easily dominated. We might have the mightiest military in the world, but we still need our allies. Russia is up to no good, China never has our best interests in mind, and there are so many other countries who would "love to see those smug, arrogant, American assholes finally get what’s coming to them.” You might not like the phrase at this point, but we truly are “Stronger Together.” So let’s be nicer to our allies, ok? (Seriously. Would it have killed you to shake Angela Merkel’s hand?)

The “I” for “Imperialism” seems outdated. The era of European nations controlling most of Africa and Asia is over. We might better substitute the “I” in M-A-I-N for words like “Ignorant,” or “Incompetent,” or “Idiotic.” For example, sending a few people to South Korea to poison his half-brother out of paranoia at losing his authority is something a crazy leader like Kim Jong-un would do. Similarly, rejecting the Climate Change findings of the world’s entire scientific community, while believing the batshit crazy rantings of Alt-right media outlets, is a sign of an unhinged person. Concocting a story about being wiretapped by Obama, while dismissing all of the evidence to the contrary, is akin to Kim Jong-un’s paranoid approach to the world. But while it might be tempting to reassign the letter “I” to mean Ignorant, Ill-informed, Imbicile, I regret to inform you that it would be premature. Imperialism seems ridiculous in a 21st century context, but when Kim Jong-un tests his missiles and fires up the people of North Korea, he’s warning them of American Imperialism. When Osama bin Laden recruited his radical followers, he cited American Imperialism. Americans see ourselves as the defenders of Democracy, and as the champions of free people around the world. Other nations see us setting up military bases in Saudi Arabia in 1991, to repel Saddam Hussein from Kuwait, and then never leaving. Other nations saw us lead the international effort to demilitarize Iraq, but then after Iraq had dismantled their weapons program, the United States overthrew their leader, against the opposition of the United Nations and our closest allies, and then we helped set up an Iraqi government that would serve our own interests. When the government of Iraq fell, looters broke into museums and ran off with priceless antiquities, because our soldiers weren’t commanded to protect those things. Our soldiers were given orders to secure the oil wells, and they did that brilliantly. Why would any other nation dismantle their weapons program after seeing what happened to Iraq? America is not trusted by several countries around the world, but Mr. President, your rhetoric takes things to a new and terrifying level for everyone. You said of Iraq, “We should have kept the oil. I would have kept the oil.”  That’s what an imperialist would say. It suggests to other nations that the United States can decide whether to “keep the oil” or “let them keep it”. In no way does it convey to them that their oil is THEIR oil. Your statements raise a lot of anxiety in every nation that is less powerful economically or militarily than the United States. That would be every other nation in the world.

Nationalism: I don’t need to say much about this. “America First” isn’t very original. We’ve heard it before. Can you guess who said the following statements? “Germany First!” “Italy First!” “Russia First!” “Japan First!” If you guessed, “Those were the statements of the craziest dictators in the history of the world, and their nationalist ideas led to a loss of life and treasure at a level no one could ever have imagined,” you’d be correct. I love my country. I mean it. I LOVE the United States. It’s magnificent, and fantastic, or as you’d say, “really, really great.” I am so proud of American inventiveness, a Constitution that has been the model of all Democratic countries around the world, the American flag planted on the moon, the automobile, the telephone, the electric light bulb, the Personal Computer, the Internet, and the ideals of liberty and democracy we stand for and defend. There’s nowhere in the world I’d rather call home. But being a proud American does not require that I think Mexicans are murderers and drug dealers and rapists, or that Iraqis owe us anything, or that all Muslims hate America, or that refugees are dangerous. Being a proud American doesn't make me likely to look out on a crowd and point to someone while saying, “Look at my African-American over there!” Being a proud American doesn't lead me to use the name "Pocahontas" as an insult. My being a proud American is the opposite of those things. My being a proud American allows me to see the Mexican, and the Iraqi, and the Muslim, the African-American, the refugee, and the Native American as neighbors in a diverse and ever-interconnecting world.

I hope this little history lesson helps you make some important decisions in the years ahead, as you continue to lead the country I have been so proud to call home for my whole life. Unless it is in fact your goal that we end up in a world war (and I'm not ruling that out, considering the economic incentives that lie therein), there are some ways you should tweak your never-ending campaign rallies to avoid stirring up anti-foreign sentiment. I’d be happy to write your speeches, but I fear that you’d go off script and let “the Donald” shine through, so it would be far better If you just start seeing things the way they really are – enemies as enemies, allies as allies, scientific facts as facts, journalists as truth-seekers, and so on.

If you found this helpful, please let me know. I’ve got other lessons to share – lessons on the long-term and world-wide detriment of “trickle-down economics” in America, the incredible economic benefits for all that arise from increasing the minimum wage, the fabulous economic positives of moving to renewable energy, the history of the world’s great religions, the disastrous consequences of school privatization with public funds, and the importance of a free press in a democracy. Best wishes for the rest of your term. We’re all resting our hopes on you!!

Sincerely,


Karina Doyle – proud American

Friday, February 24, 2017

Gender vs. Genitals: The Bathroom Agenda That Wasn't

Last year, 2016, was the deadliest year for transgender Americans. Despite the horrors of record numbers of transgender people being killed, and a history of transgender people being gang raped, burned to death, tortured to death, or castrated, yesterday President Trump repealed the guidance pertaining to transgender students, put forth by President Obama last year. This guidance instructed school districts to allow transgender students to use the restroom that matches their gender identity. Conservatives refer to the liberal "bathroom agenda" as something that puts our children (daughters) at risk of being sexually assaulted in public restrooms by male sexual predators who pretend to be female. Who opposes these conservative measures? Over 200 local, state, and national organizations that actually work to protect people against sexual assault and domestic violence. Let's examine the facts to see how conservatives have targeted one of the most abused minorities in our society, while simultaneously portraying themselves as the victims.

GENDER

Let's start with a conversation about gender. I'm a high school teacher. Imagine someone asks me how many boys and girls I have in a class. I can usually answer this by simply looking at the list of names. David is a boy. Catherine is a girl. Linda is a girl. John is a boy.  Tracy and Jamie are... Oh, I'm not sure. On the first day of school my students enter the room. Here comes Jamie, wearing a form-fitting sweater, capri pants, attractive mid-height boots that match her belt, mascara, nail polish, long hair. Jamie's a girl. Here comes Tracy. Tracy is wearing a baggy hooded sweatshirt and blue jeans that sag. I can see the top of Tracy's boxer shorts. There's a bit of stubble on Tracy's face. Tracy uses the term "bro" while bumping fists with Michael, who is wearing a football jersey. In an instant I have identified the gender of every single student in my classroom, and I haven't seen anyone's genitals.

"WAIT!" say conservatives against the so-called "bathroom agenda". "How can you possibly know how many girls and boys are in your class if you haven't seen any genitals?"

GENITALS

This illustrates the most important error concerning transgender legislation. Lawmakers aren't stating that only men can enter men's restrooms. They are saying that only penises can enter men's restrooms. This might seem like the same thing, but it isn't. Not always. About 6 in every 1,000 people are transgender. That means the woman in the restroom who is re-applying her mascara in the mirror, and fussing over the chip in her nail polish -- has a penis. The man you see in the restroom, with the sleeveless t-shirt, flat chest, camouflage cap, and a beard -- has a vagina.

This is not an easy thing to comprehend. I totally understand. I was never taught that girls could have penises and boys could have vaginas. It seems completely absurd. To most people it feels as absurd as if I hold up a photo of an elephant and say "this is an elephant, but 1% of the time this could be a giraffe." It's incomprehensible. The "T" in LGBT has long been misunderstood and I'll soon explain how it has also been misrepresented. As a person who is not Transgender I do not claim to be an expert. I'm just pointing out that we already know who the women in our midst are, and if one of them walks into a men's restroom there will be a lot of discomfort from the guys at the urinals. If she pulls up her dress to reveal a penis as proof of restroom eligibility, she might be beaten to death.

SEXUAL IDENTITY vs. SEXUAL ORIENTATION

LGBT stands for Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender. The LGB all have to do with sexual orientation. The T has to do with sexual identity. Sex organs are the sole determinant of "Gender" on a birth certificate. If a baby enters the world with a vagina, that baby is a female. Transgender individuals identify as one gender, while possessing the genitals of the other. It must be understood that sexual identity -- "are you a boy or girl?" is not the same as sexual orientation -- "do you feel attracted more to boys or to girls?" A toddler can tell you if he's a boy. But he won't know who he is attracted to until he starts to feel an attraction -- which won't happen until his early teens.

"THE TRANSGENDER AGENDA"

I have recently read articles about how "the transgender agenda" is currently targeting the traditional binary bathroom model, but its ultimate agenda is to de-sex society. These articles claim that marriage equality efforts by gays and lesbians was one step toward this agenda, which disrupted the husband/wife relationship that is the bedrock of human society, and now we have to deal with men wanting to go into women's bathrooms. WHEN WILL IT END?! As is always the case in these articles, the people in the majority seek to make themselves out to be victims. They are outraged that their religious freedoms are being trampled by those who seek to upend God's design. When presenting one's self as a victim, the other person is automatically placed in the position of aggressor. An attacker. The step that is skipped entirely is the one where one makes a case that transgender people prey on people in bathrooms. By saying we'll be safer in the women's room if we disallow transgender women to enter them is to imply that they are abusers. They are not. There has never been any evidence to support this claim whatsoever. But people sure are afraid.

But seriously, all that lady with the penis wants to do is pee! Can you please stop inventing this crazy de-genderizing conspiracy theory and JUST. LET. HER. PEE?

THE REAL VICTIMS

Firing up fear about how transgender people are part of a conspiracy to upend the very foundation of human society has horrible consequences. Hostility toward transgender people is EXCEEDINGLY common, The danger comes not just from others, but from themselves. Half of all transgender adults report having attempted suicide at some point during their lifetimes. HALF! Sixty-four percent have been victims of sexual assault as a result of their transgender status.

Keep in mind, that's only the ones who managed to survive suicide or fatal attacks long enough to make it to the survey. It's impossible to know how many lost their lives before getting the chance to answer.

Those who live their lives as the gender they know they are, rather than the gender assigned to them on a birth certificate, face an incredibly threatening world. Read about the fatal beating of this woman, or this woman, or just read this jaw-dropping list of people in a Wikipedia page that is being constantly updated. Just Google "Transgender violence" to see that none of the violence is ever the transgender person doing the attacking.

RESTROOM VULNERABILITIES

Another absurd thing about the transgender legislation is the staged portrayal of men preying on girls in restrooms. Sexual predators do exist, in alarming numbers. They occasionally target children in restrooms. Those children are boys. It's mind-boggling that people claim our children will be safe from sexual predators if we keep all penises in the men's rooms. If we want our children safe from sexual predators, we need to focus our attentions on sexual predators, not transgender people.

NOT "THE WRONG BODY"

We've heard journalists describe transgender people as "trapped in the wrong body." This is an unfortunate portrayal, because the bodies we have are the ones God gave us. If we think that God doesn't make mistakes, then the man with a vagina is exactly as he should be. To call him "her" because "she" hasn't had "the surgery" is an act of oppression. To ask him whether or not he is going to have "the surgery" is really impertinent and offensive. If you look masculine but tell me your Joe's daughter, I will not respond this way: "Daughter? Hm. So, ...you have a vagina?" I'll just take your word for it. Who would know better than Joe's daughter if she's a female? Stop getting hung up on the body you think someone else should have, and just be nice to people. Also, don't pity the person. To portray the person as "trapped in the wrong body" is to suggest that they are a pitiable victim. Gender Dysphoria is a real and miserable condition caused mostly by the world telling transgender people they are broken. But transgender people can live very happy lives, as long as legislators and abusers aren't in the habit of attacking them.

TERMINOLOGY

If a guy tells you he's a guy, then he's a guy. Stop saying "she" or "her" about him.
If a woman tells you she's a woman, then she's a woman. Stop saying "he" or "him" about her.
If someone tells you what gender they are, accept that you may never know what genitals are between his/her legs. If a masculine person walks into a ladies' room, assume that person can read basic signage and knows that's where she belongs.

"Transvestite" is the term we all became very familiar with by watching The Rocky Horror Picture Show. Everyone in my generation can picture the "Transsexual Transvestite from Transylvania" doing "The Time Warp" in HIS fish-net stockings. This is just one more reason why we are all so confused! We watch a great movie, while throwing toilet paper and toast, and four decades later we realize we have learned all the wrong terminology. Tim Curry in drag is not one bit transgender. He's just a guy in fishnet nylons. Transvestites are men in drag, so Dr. Frank-N-Furter qualifies as a transvestite.

"Transgender" is the term to indicate one whose own sense of gender is not the same as the one in the vital statistics records.

"Transsexual" is a term going through some evolution. It used to mean someone who had surgically transitioned from one gender to the other, because "sex" refers to the genitals, while "gender" refers to the identity. But someone may take male or female hormones that change everything from vocal range to facial hair to breast development, so "the surgery" doesn't have to happen for someone to be considered "transsexual".

Don't say "tranny." It's rude.

TRANSGENDER PEOPLE I KNOW

I only know I know four transgender people personally. I say "know I know" because I went to a local showing of a documentary called "Faces and Facets of the Transgender Experience," and was shocked to see that some of the transgender people featured in the documentary were sitting near me in the theater. I never would have otherwise known they were transgender. That bearded guy leaning against the wall in a flannel shirt and jeans looks like a regular guy. He "passed," one might say. People who "pass" are those who everyone assumes has always been the gender they claim to be. They probably started the transition from one gender to another at a young age. We are all encountering transgender people all the time, and we just don't know it because they are living authentic lives and look the way they feel.

Some were forced to delay the transition, being advised by well-meaning parents, and under-informed health-care providers, that what they were stating so forcefully and consistently as children was "a phase." During puberty they went through permanent physical changes. In some cases these physical changes lead to a serious crisis of identity and an inability to "pass" without significant surgery, which is an enormous financial and emotional burden that not everyone can bear.

One thing that has surprised me as I have gotten to know some transgender people, is that many transgender women weren't super girly before transitioning. Of the four transgender women I've gotten to know personally, one had been a champion race car driver and auto mechanic, another had been a high-ranking police officer, another had been a combat soldier, and another had been a construction engineer. Another, who I've never met, was the greatest male athlete in the entire world... until she told the world she was actually Caitlyn Jenner. To one transgender friend I commented with sarcasm that I wouldn't expect transgender women to be such macho men. I would have expected pre-transitiion transgender women to be the stereotypical effeminate male with flamboyant mannerisms -- hair stylists, fashion designers,  maybe Broadway musical choreographers who employ copious use of "jazz hands". She replied, "We go through a lot to try and make our dads proud of us."

Transgender people put up with a lot. Try not to be yet another facet of what they have to endure.

If you want to know more about this (since I'm not an expert), start with PFLAG and GLSEN,